Discovering Skopelos Island; what touristic guides won’t tell you

Most of you may recall Skopelos as the island where Meryl Streep shook her bon-bon in “Mamma Mia – The Movie”. Despite the fact I have family in the island from the part of my aunt Liana’s husband, I hadn’t been there since I was, eeek, like, 6 months old. I returned to Skopelos last Monday for a brief 3-day holiday with my best friend and gathered interesting info that could be useful to you in case you visit the island someday.

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1. PEOPLE

The most surprising impression I kept from Skopelos is about the politeness and open-heartedness of the locals. In general, people in the islands tend to be more pure in heart and extrovert than people who live in cities in the greek mainland, but that is no more that often in the most touristic of islands. In Skopelos, this kind of sincere welcoming still exists. The waiters at the cafes will remember you day after day and greet you with your first name. You might buy a phonecard from the kiosk and the old salesman in a big smile will wish you to hear good news wherever you call. And if someone offers to give you a lift ‘cos your hotel is on their way, don’t think twice, they’re not trying to rob and kill you. They’re just being hospitable the way they learnt to from their families. Believe it or not, there is no criminality in this island.

2. BEACHES

Most (if not all) touristic guides refer to Stafylos as the best beach on the island. Hell, no. The view is very beautiful indeed and the sea is crystal clear BUT you have to know there is a quite long downhill to get from the road to the beach -and guess what, it becomes uphill when you leave the beach several hours later, relaxed yet exhausted from sun and swim. It’s better though if you have rented at some of the many hotels down the road to the beach. This way you’re closer. For the most laid-back beach time though, no walking or climbing to or from the beach, head to Agnontas or Panormos beaches. For romantic times, choose Milia beach (a little downhill under the shadow of enormous pine trees so definetely worth its way). My favourite beach was Kastani beach, the most faraway from Skopelos town. Sandy and wide, this beach has only been organized a couple of months ago and turned into a youth hot spot, with a nice beach bar, music from a DJ from morning until late and a nice, relaxing landscape. You won’t find it in any touristic guide so you have to trust me.

3. ACCOMMODATION

Most hotels, hostels and rooms to let are not listed on the Internet, as local businesses rely mostly on word of mouth. So don’t be disappointed if everything seems booked – there are much more places to stay on the island. We found our room through a friend who knew a lady whose daughter works in Skopelos. Funny, huh? Luckily enough, the place called “Marigoula Appartments” was very beautiful, neat and clean. You won’t be that lucky with all accommodation though, as there are several rooms to let that have stayed loyal to the 60s. Make sure you ask a lot of questions before you book, like if you will have a WC and shower in the room (not opposite the corridor!), what floor you will be staying on AND if there is an elevator (if there is not and you carry huge suitcases like I do, you might need to ask for a room on ground floor). The office of the Organisation of Rooms to Let can be a great help. It is located at the harbour and is open till noon. They have a list of all rooms available at all times, so even if you haven’t booked your accommodation in advance, you won’t be sleeping on the streets.  REMEMBER: If you are travelling with children or require special health care, always prefer to book in advance AND ask for accommodation in the Chora (that’s how we call the main town of every greek island) so that you can have easy access to medical treatment if anything unfortunate occurs.

4. FOOD

Most beach bars offer sandwiches and snacks, but I’d suggest that you save your money and appettite for a nice meal at the taverns or restaurants at the harbour or anywhere near. You may enjoy a meal with the best panoramic view of the harbour from Finikas restaurant (MUST try the potatoes with metsovone cheese dish), have a traditional gyros and souvlaki meal under the huge plane tree at the central square (the only square in Chora actually) or choose from a selection of local dishes at the many taverns and restaurants of the harbour. Skopelos is well-known for its plums and vineyards so local dishes include pork with plums and coq au vin. You may find traditional fish taverns at some of the beaches as well and there is a nice tavern with delicious meat at road level at Stafylos (no need to climb up and down the hill, the bus leaves you just outside) For a coffee or snack, I adored “Skopelos” cafe at the harbour. There you may try deliciously fresh fruit salads with yoghurt or ice cream and a surprising variety of handmade local sweets deinetely worth taking home with you.

5. SHOPPING

Shopping in small greek islands can be really fun as you will be discovering little cute shops at every corner. Most of them sell a selection of handmade accessories and sandals that are becoming more and more popular in Greece in the last few years. My favourites in Skopelos were “Kalimera” for handmade accessories and “A be ba blom” for etherial long dresses of excellent quality and design. When it comes to souvenirs, look for pottery with colorful folklore patterns traditional to the Sporades (the group of islands where Skopelos belongs)

 

6. GOING OUT

In the streets of Chora you will find atmospheric open-air bars and cafes playing summery tunes and the latest hits. The best-known are “Ntokos”, “Mercurius” and “La Costa”.

6. SIGHTSEEING

Skopelos is a place for tranquillity and rest in nature at a slow pace. No stress over visiting museums and archaeological sites either. However, if you feel the need to understand better the local life, you can always visit the Folkore Museum in the heart of the Chora of Skopelos, feel the mystery of centuries-old small churches and take a day-long boat trip round the best beaches of the island, some of them only accessible by sea.